Interior Trim

I started with the interior trim in the Fury, anything that I’m likely to come into contact with, which is basically the horizontal panels on the inside are lined with foam sheet, and then covered with Alcantara. The other visible panels will be covered in Alcantara.

Progress is quite quick on this, but I’ve run out of glue so no more progress until after new year.


First I cut the foam to size, then covered the foam in Alcantara. For removable panels the aluminum was bonded to the foam, however where the foam fits up to the GRP I will use velcro or trim fasteners to hold it in place.


Once the foam was cut to size the alcantara was then attached to the foam using contact adhesive.

Starting to cover the interior in alcantara

The Alcantara has a very nice feel and I think it is a good contrast against the orange tubing.

Engine Rebuild

I stripped the crossflow into component form, leaving the pistons and crank shaft well alone though. The bores are showing no signs of wear, but there was rather a lot of carbon deposits. I de-coked the engine as best I could and cleaned it thoroughly including the oil channels and water galleries. The kent 244 cam was installed and timed, using a timing disk.

The short block and components ready for rebuild

Quite a lot of crap on the inside, but no leaky head gasket, bores are in good shape.

I’m starting to see mild valve seat recession which is alarming, so I expect that by this time next year I will need to have new seats fitted, at the same time I will fit hardened seats which mean I can run pure unleaded. I may use this as a chance to rebuild one of the spare blocks and heads to give me a running spare.

There is some valve seat recession present, next year i'll probably get the head converted to unleaded

I fitted new valve springs and fitted stem seals, the originals do not fit as they foul the internal spring, ones from an MG metro do fit however so these were installed. I fitted a new rear oil seal and gaskets and should hopefully now have a leak free engine.

All bolts where assembled with threadlock. I also fitted a T-piece in the top cooling hose to insert the Coolant temperature sensor for the microsquirt box.

Alternator bracket lockwired as well as thread locked - Course threads are a real pain...

I must now weld up the sump, or find a new one before putting it back in the car. Once in the car i’ll need to run it at 2500rpm for about 20 minutes to run in the new cam, and at the same torque down the head again.


I’m pretty sure I don’t need to take the prop shafts out now, so today I fitted the bolts for a final time. This is something you want to get right, as the prop shafts turn at very high rpm. If they come off, the end that comes off will flay around. This is a bad thing. Sometimes its just a case of new panels, other times it can sever the fuel lines causing the car to catch fire or if it breaches the floor, the car could be jacked up, causing it to rollover, or if it breaches the paneling into the cockpit it can cause injury to me or a passenger.

Bike engines produce a lot of vibrations and this has a habit of causing things to loosen off. In addition, there are two prop shafts, and a sprocket adapter which is three times as many things to fall off as on the seven.

My plan therefore is to use three things to stop the bolts coming off:

  1. Tighten the bolts RFT.
  2. Use thread-lock on all bolts
  3. Use lock-wire or a locking tab on all bolts.

The sprocket adapter bolt is a tricky one, as it is enclosed by the prop and the adapter, this is tightened to 86nm, with locktite, and it has a locking tab which I’ve hammered down. The problem is however, that I cannot see this bolt visually to check periodically. What I will do initially is re-tighten it after 100 miles, if it is loose then it will just have to be done regularly or I’ll drill a hole in the adapter and lock-wire it. To give me an indication of any movement, I’ve put a line of paint at the joint, if the bolt is coming loose there will be a gap (however small) between the line of paint and the adapter which should give an early indication. The bolts are M8 cap head grade 12, and are tightened as tight as I can get them, thread-locked, lock-wired, and marked.

All prop shaft bolts are lock wired and marked

The reversing box uses M8 bolts, these are grade 12, and tightened as tight as I can get them with the spanner, again thread-locked. These are lock-wired in pairs and marked with paint.

All other bolts are lock wired and marked.

The rear flange uses nuts and bolts, again grade 12 bolts, with nylocs and thread-lock. I’ve lock-wired the bolts and used a locking tab on the rear which is bent over the nuts to stop them turning. Again they are tightened as tight as I can, and marked for security.

Rear prop shaft bolts are lock wired, and also have locking tabs made to stop the nuts turning.

LC-1 Permenant Installation

As part of the upgrade to fuel injection, I am installing the LC-1 permanently. Right now I have installed it in a plastic box with the gauge and a 12v lead so i can plug it into the auxiliary power feed when I need to monitor Air/Fuel ratio. This has worked well as there is nothing you can do to the carbs when you are driving other than observe the readings in order to make changes later.

Megasquirt however, is capable of real time mixture adjustment using the EGO code and a wide band O2 sensor. This combination allows megasquirt to adjust the AFR (Within preset limits) towards a lambda target. I want to make full use of this as it should make tuning easier as well as providing better running.

The first part is to install the LC-1 Permanently, to do this I need to mount the unit itself behind the scuttle. I’ve made a bracket form a bend strip of aluminum which is screwed onto the bulkhead. The tails for the communications bus are cable tied out of the way, and the main lead is fed towards where the megasquirt unit shall go.

Lc1 mounted in a aluminium bracket on the bulkhead

In order to link the LC-1 and the wideband o2 sensor. I’ve made a hole about 3cm in diameter through the side panel just underneath and slightly in front of the bottom of the dashboard. This allows the 22mm diameter nut, and the body of the sensor to pass through (These are smaller than the connector at the other end.) In order to seal it all up I’ve used a large grommit, the whole of which was too big for the cable, so I used some corrugated cable wrap to finish it off. The cable is then cable tied in place up to the LC-1 so that it should not get snagged.

Mounted the sensor in the exhaust with the tail going into the foot well.

I have left the gauge in the box with the power supply. This will enable me to get a visual indication of AFR when driving as needed as well as the option to recalibrate the sensor if I need to without a laptop. For everything else the 2.5mm jack is easily accessible with the dash on to connect up to the laptop.


Damian came round last Saturday and we had a go at getting the main tub lined up. Its a pig of a job for a few reasons.


The first is that the bodywork is nowhere near symmetrical, the front left wheel arch is a few cm smaller than the front right. The inner distance between the front arch and rear arch on the left side is shorter than that on the right. The curves of the front bumper are different on each side which makes it hard to line up. The rear end is slightly higher on one side, and the rear left arch has a different curvature. The front bulkhead is concave meaning you will never get a good shut line against the bonnet – this is the one that is going to annoy me the most once its all lined up.

The second annoyance is the quality of the GRP is pretty poor, I’d been warned about this so it wasn’t a huge surprise. Talking to a few people it seems that this is primarily down to the molds, but is also down to some poor GRP work.

The body is in 4 pieces, this makes it somewhat harder to keep it all together to get a good idea of what’s going on, Tim and Colin seem to have perfected the way of getting it all on, to do this you require copious amounts of gaffa tape, and basically tape all the parts together. Once they are together you position it as best you can.

I’d got the easier (right hand) side pretty much where i wanted but couldn’t get the left to line up, to make things easier I put a rivet into the bulkhead at the front right which allowed me to keep it roughly correct front to back on the right side, but still allowed a lot of movement of the rest of the shell.

Damian and I then proceeded to stretch, tilt, adjust, press, squeeze and maneuver the shell into a position we could both live with – I preferred to look at shut lines, and gaps around the arches, Damian was more focused on height, and stance.

In the end we got it pretty much where we think it should be, there was just one problem, the left hand side was going to be a disaster. The front wheel was almost hitting the bonnet at the front, and the rear arch was hitting the rear wheel.

Somehow we had to stretch the bodywork, obviously this is not a trivial thing to do, so we moved it back to give a little more space around the rear, and the bonnet forward on the left side, this gave a better look from the left hand side, with a larger shut line around the bonnet.

We shuffled it around for an hour or so more until we were happy with the shut line on the bonnet, got tape and shims out to stop it moving, and then I painstakingly crawled around the front of the car clamping the bonnet to the hinge. Once i was sure it wasn’t going to fall apart, we lifted the bonnet up so I could get in with the drill to put the holes into the bonnet. Of course it all shifted, and we had to repeat the whole process again.

This time I decided to try to drill the holes with the bonnet down, whilst it was awkward it paid off and i got the holes where I wanted.

This week I wanted to get the tub on properly – its been clamped in place with some dowels for good measure up until now, and I decided to have a bit of a fiddle to try to get the left side to line up better. The right hand side looks fine, so I put a couple of larger rivets in the tub to stop it moving.

The problem is purely that the arches are smaller and will foul the wheels, and there is a larger shut line at the bonnet. I decided to cure the shut line first and shoved the tub forward on the left side until it hit the bonnet. I then clamped it all in place and experimented by twisting the tub at the back and raising the height and reducing the width. This gave me some additional space at the rear, and I then wedged a bit of wood between the chassis and the back of the tub to see if I could force it out, in doing so it now looks pretty good. I will need to find a more permanent way of doing this, but I expect with some additional fibreglassing I can force it to stay in this shape.

The front is still too close to the wheel and will require some trimming, as its slightly smaller than the front left, I will trim away a very small amount of the GRP to give me more clearance, this seems quite common, I will experiment with some black tape to simulate the effects until I’m happy with the lines.

I need to think of a way of bringing the center of the scuttle forward a few MM to eliminate the shut line but I don’t think it will happen to be honest, its very stiff and its about 10MM out.

Today I finished off fixing on the rear tub, I used large head rivets, on the leading edge I put a strip of Aluminum down to hide the rough edge and neaten things up a bit.

I then attached the side-pods with rivnuts. I made up some additional brackets to ensure they are well supported, the bodywork is now becoming a lot more rigid which is good news because I felt it was quite flimsy before. The trick for getting the shut line good on the side pod is to use rivnuts as close to the outside edge as possible, this is hard due to the access constraints, but also because there is not a lot to bolt through as there are cut outs close to the edge for the impact protection.

I put rivnuts into the GRP and bolted through the floor into them, this seemed to give me the best fit. Both sides are removable, in the future I want to use the right hand pod for luggage space so it makes sense to make it easy to remove so I can fit additional GRP compartments into it.

I lined the exhaust side with heat reflective material in the hope it will stop anything melting, the exhaust will get really hot, its wrapped in heat wrap, but I want to try to avoid any over heating here.

I made an opening in the front of the pod for cold air to come through, I shall put gauze over this to keep stones out.\n

I’ve fully decided on a flat floor of sheet aluminum, I just need to find a source of large aluminum sheets. I will make one for the front which will go from the crossmember at the front of the transmission tunnel right to the front of the bonnet, it will go out to the wheels with cut outs where the wheels turn. There will need to be additional cut outs for the sump, and access to water drain, and perhaps the oil filter. These will be sealed when not in use when possible.

There will be a central section over the transmission tunnel, and a rear section from the crossmember to the end of the bodywork.

There are two main reasons for this, the first is aerodynamic, the fury produces lift at speed, especially at the front, so anything I can do to aid downforce is going to be beneficial. The second is for the IVA test, the less the tester can see, the less chance he has of spotting something he doesnt like. They are removable so if he does need to visually inspect anything, he will be able to.

New Luggage Compartment

I’ve never liked the luggage compartment in the seven.  This is my third, and most  likely penultimate attempt now.  I think at some point I will make one out of thick aluminum rather than wood, but stick the current design.

The first one I made had a small aluminum deck about 6″ below the top of the boot and about 10″x20″ across, it was big enough for a small petrol can, and a bag, but there was no shelter from the elements, and lots of gaps for things to fall through.  On top was an aluminum top, covered in vinyl.  The middle section was removable, and whilst not having a hinge, did have a lock and was relatively good looking..

I didn’t like this because the access to it wasn’t hinged and it was badly fitting, so i made a new top to go to stoneleigh last year as I needed more luggage space, i kept the same design but made a smaller lid with a hinge and key-lock, and added some L section with some holes drilled so that I could bungee a bag on top.  This was functional, but the boot space was still very small considering the potential space there. The bare aluminum clashed with the rest of the car though so something needed to be done.  Rather than just covering it, I decided to start from scratch, initially I planned to use aluminum, but in the end used MDF because its easier to cut and shape, and also easier for me to find as its stocked at my local DIY shop. (Dutch anal-retardedness is bad enough when the language barrier isn’t a problem.)

The boot space can divided up into three sections, a big bit in the middle, between the roll cage support bars, and the outer sections on the outside of the support bars.  The middle section is essentially a big cube, except that in the big cube is also a fuel tank, and a moving axle beam.

I decided that I wanted a space big enough for a 20 liter jerry can to sit flat, and ideally to make use of as much space as possible.  Therefore the floor of the boot is in two sections a lower one which gives me 1″ clearance from the axle, and a rear section that is raised to clear the fuel tank.  It is then sealed in at the side at the chassis rails.  At some point I might make some cubby boxes to fit down the outer sides, but for now I am happy with the larger space in the middle.   To cover the outer compartments, I’ve cut some aluminum and glued it on top.  I can either make new ones or cut a hole in these ones for access if required.

I have ordered a boot cover via a chap on ebay who came recommended.  This will cover the whole thing, but also allow me to remove it if I go on a trip where I need to have larger things or more space.

Despite painting the MDF on both sides with hammerite, it is only going to be a matter of time before it starts to rot, when it does I’ll use the existing one as a template and get some 3mm aluminum to make a new one.

LC-1 Permenant Install

I decided to install my innovate LC-1 permanently in the car, whilst this wont give me offline data-logging, it will save some effort when I go for a data-logging run.  In the future, I will be running megasquirt, and will use the LC-1 to provide and AFR readout.

I got my LC-1 from an innovate reseller called Telematica last year, their price was good, and it arrived almost immediately (They are based in greece, and it arrived in 2 days.)  So I ordered a digital gauge, the XD-16, which I will mount in the dash.  The reason being that whilst offline logging is nice with the laptop, it can be a real pain trying to work out what you were doing at any given time, as correlating RPM, Load, and AFR requires some data mangling.  I’m hoping i’ll get a good visual indication of what’s going on with this as I drive.

I used to keep it all in a little plastic box with a serial connector on one end, a 12v adaptor on the other, and long wire going out to the Lambda Sensor, I just removed it all and right now, it looks a bit like this:

I shall mount the LC-1 onto the bulkhead with the rest of the electronics, and the gauge I shall wire into the dash with a connector for the Serial cable so that things can still be disconnected. The sensor cable has a nice plastic bit which can go into a grommet, if its long enough, I’d like to get it into the scuttle, or engine bay rather than the passengers foot well as its likely to get broken if its there.

Radiator Mounts and Ducting

The radiator mounts were too flimsy, this caused them to fracture. The old ones where riveted in place and made out of 2mm steel with no bracing. I removed the ones which were still in tact, and made some new ones out of 6mm steel strip, welded in place. They form one complete mount per side rather than four individual ones and are a good bit stronger than before.


The car was getting very hot in the desert at speed, so I replaced it with a new one on the assumption that the damage done by the fan bending the fins was restricting the air flow, time will tell if this really was the problem or not. At the same time I moved the fan behind the radiator, using the solid mounts rather than mounting through the radiator, this means the fan is very close to the radiator which should aid cooling when stationary, and it also overlaps the oil cooler slightly which should have an additional benefit.


To further aid the airflow, I added some ducting around the radiator to force the air through it rather than around it. I’m doing additional work to the bonnet and when i finish that i’ll smooth it and paint it.


Exhaust Wrapping

The exhaust wrapping has been coming off slowly over the last year or so, so i replaced it with new stuff.

The heat wrap had come off the manifold over the last couple of years

Hans suggested that soaking the wrap in water before wrapping would make life easier, and it certainly does. It becomes a lot more pliable when wet, and it stretches, then as it dries it contracts leaving a very tightly wrapped result.

I cleaned it up and it now looks as it should.

Floor Painted

After Morocco, the car is in need of some love. Half the Sahara seems to be inside of the car, so as the weather is cold and wet, I’ve started with a proper clean.


I removed the seat belts and anything else in the way, got out the wire brush and grinder and cleaned up all the floor back to painted metal, and in some places back to the metal itself. Two coats of hammerite later its looking pretty good.


The seats were maukit, so I cleaned them up with detergent, and some vinyl polish, they came up pretty well.


I Also painted the roll bar, and a few other bits of the chassis which were exposed to daylight and have faded a little.