Interior Finished

I finished the interior of the car this weekend. I was being held up mainly as I had to wait on some parts. I had to fit the on/on/on switch for the wipers, however in some fit of mouser madness I misread the part number and whilst it is an on-on-on switch, its actually not any use on its own, as its positions are Z+X X+A A+B which means I still need to use a relay. So I just broke, and wired up a relay that breaks the park circuit when the wipers are on. They wipe, and seem to do so pretty quickly.


I fitted the replacement flasher, which flashes, and checked all the switches function as they should. They did, so I bolted in the dash, its pretty solid, and fits just the way it should. I think it looks really good, and am very pleased with the end result. It was definitely worth all the mess. I cleaned the interior with an air gun, hoover, and fabric cleaner, and routed the internal wiring, and stuck down the side carpets. The immobilizer stopped working because the sensor was too far away from the fob, so i need to move it somewhere else, but I’m not sure where yet.


I then trimmed down the seat belt tails to a more sensible size, i went for six inches past the buckle. Next up was to trim around the windscreen. My plan here is to use alcantara, with one edge tucked under the windscreen ever so slightly (should be fine since its bonded in place with copious amounts of PU) and the other is held down with some U trim which also puts the required radious on the edge of the windscreen surround. I then used contact adhesive in the bits in the middle, so hopefully it will all stay up there. It was fiddly and took forever, but looks pretty good now.


I bolted up the hideous sierra steering wheel, and checked everything worked, it did so had a celebratory drive around the car park, gear change is crappy since there is no tactile feedback from the lever, but this will be easily remedied post IVA. The car is pretty quick, first gear is pretty tall though, i’m hoping the 3.21 diff was the right choice afterall. The interior is now finished, I’ll need to start covering it when i’m doing messy jobs to try and keep it nice and clean.



Damian came round last Saturday and we had a go at getting the main tub lined up. Its a pig of a job for a few reasons.


The first is that the bodywork is nowhere near symmetrical, the front left wheel arch is a few cm smaller than the front right. The inner distance between the front arch and rear arch on the left side is shorter than that on the right. The curves of the front bumper are different on each side which makes it hard to line up. The rear end is slightly higher on one side, and the rear left arch has a different curvature. The front bulkhead is concave meaning you will never get a good shut line against the bonnet – this is the one that is going to annoy me the most once its all lined up.

The second annoyance is the quality of the GRP is pretty poor, I’d been warned about this so it wasn’t a huge surprise. Talking to a few people it seems that this is primarily down to the molds, but is also down to some poor GRP work.

The body is in 4 pieces, this makes it somewhat harder to keep it all together to get a good idea of what’s going on, Tim and Colin seem to have perfected the way of getting it all on, to do this you require copious amounts of gaffa tape, and basically tape all the parts together. Once they are together you position it as best you can.

I’d got the easier (right hand) side pretty much where i wanted but couldn’t get the left to line up, to make things easier I put a rivet into the bulkhead at the front right which allowed me to keep it roughly correct front to back on the right side, but still allowed a lot of movement of the rest of the shell.

Damian and I then proceeded to stretch, tilt, adjust, press, squeeze and maneuver the shell into a position we could both live with – I preferred to look at shut lines, and gaps around the arches, Damian was more focused on height, and stance.

In the end we got it pretty much where we think it should be, there was just one problem, the left hand side was going to be a disaster. The front wheel was almost hitting the bonnet at the front, and the rear arch was hitting the rear wheel.

Somehow we had to stretch the bodywork, obviously this is not a trivial thing to do, so we moved it back to give a little more space around the rear, and the bonnet forward on the left side, this gave a better look from the left hand side, with a larger shut line around the bonnet.

We shuffled it around for an hour or so more until we were happy with the shut line on the bonnet, got tape and shims out to stop it moving, and then I painstakingly crawled around the front of the car clamping the bonnet to the hinge. Once i was sure it wasn’t going to fall apart, we lifted the bonnet up so I could get in with the drill to put the holes into the bonnet. Of course it all shifted, and we had to repeat the whole process again.

This time I decided to try to drill the holes with the bonnet down, whilst it was awkward it paid off and i got the holes where I wanted.

This week I wanted to get the tub on properly – its been clamped in place with some dowels for good measure up until now, and I decided to have a bit of a fiddle to try to get the left side to line up better. The right hand side looks fine, so I put a couple of larger rivets in the tub to stop it moving.

The problem is purely that the arches are smaller and will foul the wheels, and there is a larger shut line at the bonnet. I decided to cure the shut line first and shoved the tub forward on the left side until it hit the bonnet. I then clamped it all in place and experimented by twisting the tub at the back and raising the height and reducing the width. This gave me some additional space at the rear, and I then wedged a bit of wood between the chassis and the back of the tub to see if I could force it out, in doing so it now looks pretty good. I will need to find a more permanent way of doing this, but I expect with some additional fibreglassing I can force it to stay in this shape.

The front is still too close to the wheel and will require some trimming, as its slightly smaller than the front left, I will trim away a very small amount of the GRP to give me more clearance, this seems quite common, I will experiment with some black tape to simulate the effects until I’m happy with the lines.

I need to think of a way of bringing the center of the scuttle forward a few MM to eliminate the shut line but I don’t think it will happen to be honest, its very stiff and its about 10MM out.

Today I finished off fixing on the rear tub, I used large head rivets, on the leading edge I put a strip of Aluminum down to hide the rough edge and neaten things up a bit.

I then attached the side-pods with rivnuts. I made up some additional brackets to ensure they are well supported, the bodywork is now becoming a lot more rigid which is good news because I felt it was quite flimsy before. The trick for getting the shut line good on the side pod is to use rivnuts as close to the outside edge as possible, this is hard due to the access constraints, but also because there is not a lot to bolt through as there are cut outs close to the edge for the impact protection.

I put rivnuts into the GRP and bolted through the floor into them, this seemed to give me the best fit. Both sides are removable, in the future I want to use the right hand pod for luggage space so it makes sense to make it easy to remove so I can fit additional GRP compartments into it.

I lined the exhaust side with heat reflective material in the hope it will stop anything melting, the exhaust will get really hot, its wrapped in heat wrap, but I want to try to avoid any over heating here.

I made an opening in the front of the pod for cold air to come through, I shall put gauze over this to keep stones out.\n

I’ve fully decided on a flat floor of sheet aluminum, I just need to find a source of large aluminum sheets. I will make one for the front which will go from the crossmember at the front of the transmission tunnel right to the front of the bonnet, it will go out to the wheels with cut outs where the wheels turn. There will need to be additional cut outs for the sump, and access to water drain, and perhaps the oil filter. These will be sealed when not in use when possible.

There will be a central section over the transmission tunnel, and a rear section from the crossmember to the end of the bodywork.

There are two main reasons for this, the first is aerodynamic, the fury produces lift at speed, especially at the front, so anything I can do to aid downforce is going to be beneficial. The second is for the IVA test, the less the tester can see, the less chance he has of spotting something he doesnt like. They are removable so if he does need to visually inspect anything, he will be able to.

Collecting the Fury

The chassis came back from powder coating on Tuesday, so I booked a van and went to collect the chassis on the Saturday.  I drove down via dunkirk and dover over night, managed to miss my boat due to the van being too high, by the time I’d paid the surcharge the ship had sailed.

FYI, Norfolkline don’t really discriminate between cars and vans as long as its for non-commercial use, when you book online via an agent, you get a billion options for length and height etc, basically, the trigger is 2.4 Meters high, if its over this, your van doesn’t fit in the upper (car) decks, and you must go in the main truck decks, for this there is a surcharge.  The maximum length would appear to be 6 Meters, but it is the height that is the one to watch.

From Utrecht, it is quicker and cheaper to drive down via the channel, than take the crossings from Rotterdam/Hoek Van Holland, although there is a lot of convenience from the overnight crossing if your in the east/north.

Unlike my previous trips through Dover, I didn’t have any issues with customs and intimidation, and was out of the port by 9.15, I’d expected it to take up to 45 minutes.  A quick stop at Ashford to visit the bank and I arrived at BGH Geartech.  Chris went through the bits and bobs, and we discussed the build, he explained how the chassis bolted together, and of course I promptly forgot it all, but I’m sure it will all come back to me at the appropriate time.

I had a good nosey around the shop, and at the parts.   Chris hadn’t got the engine mounts made up yet, so they kept the engine  as this is the first one they have with the 2006+ engine design.  This is a bit of a setback, because, whilst I had known that the drive-shafts wouldn’t be ready, I had instead decided to concentrate on getting the engine plumbed in.  Instead I will have to do a lot of things piecemeal.

Chris also got some RS 2000 uprights, I wasn’t sure if these were the right ones for the hubs as rally design sales guy had said that the alloy hubs used standard bearings. In the end, they were group four hubs, not standard alloy ones like the raceleda set.

Chris was kind enough to let me have a bunch of other bits delivered to their workshop which saved me a few quid on postage.  I found an R1 package on ebay and made a very low offer, assuming it all works, then I’ve got a bargain.  From the picture the bike had front-ended something, and whilst there is no damage to the engine on the sides (Typical where the bike has slide along the road.) annoyingly  one of the oil pipes has been bent, so I will need to order a new one from Yamaha.  I will also need a new sump gasket and I might as well get some oil too.

The kit has pretty much everything needed to get the engine to run, it has the filler cap, full wiring loom, switches, clock, engine/gearbox bolts and a bunch of other bits and pieces.  I wont be using the clocks as my primary gauges, but I will leave the connector so that I can connect them up for fault diagnoses etc.

I also ordered another set of driveshaft seals for the freelander diff.  I got these from Qualitypart on ebay.

The sump baffle, also from Ebay.  Its CNC machined from 2mm aluminum and looks fairly solid.

Barnett gold springs, and uprated friction plates. Also from ebay.

Power Commander, from ebay.

The nitron shocks are a work of art.  These are Nitron NTRs with 180 and 130lb springs.

The chassis, powder coated orange,  (RAL 2007) the pedal box is raised to give me more space for my big feet. The pedals are also raised so that they will touch the balls of my feet.

The drivers seat has been lowered an inch to give me some more head room, and make me fit better in the car.

I also collected the Roll-over bar, this has been extended by 40mm as I was too tall for the standard one, this should also stop the supports form digging into my sides as they are moved a little too.

The panel-work is pre-cut, and in theory doesn’t require any trimming if you have a standard fury.  In my case I will need to cut them where the lowered floor is, and where the side impact protection/crutch straps interfere with the shape of the chassis.

The bonnet hinge has been plated, but I think I will paint this orange.

The brake line kit, this comes complete with flexible hoses, but they wont fit into my wilwood calipers so I need either new hoses, or an 1/8th NPTF->M10 Female adaptor.

The lower rear wishbones, camber adjuster, uprights, and hub spacers.

Lower front wishbones (top) and upper rear wishbones.

Pedals, pedal box, and steering components

Modified hand-brake, steering shaft extension, accelerator pedal, and bias adjuster.

Nut and bolt pack.

Amongst other things, Chris also recommended Gerald Dale Motor-Sport to get my DCOE’s setup on the seven, so I’ll book a session soon I think.

Paneling the floor

Dry fitted all the aluminum panels. The floor will have rivets every 4″ along, and the other panels are riveted with 3.2mm rivets. The manual suggests that the panels should be installed first, however I agree with Tim that these will only get in the way. I have drilled, countersunk, and de-burred all the holes, test fitted the panels, and now put them safely out of the way.

I will refit the floor as its going to be hard to do this with the car the right way up. The others can be fitted later.


I built a mezzanine today, i’d toyed around with a few designs, the one that seemed the most foolproof and fairly cost effective was to use rivet nuts to fasten a block of wood to each side of the garage, then joists going across the workspace at 2.20M high.  This meant that the minimum height underneath was quite high, above head height by quite some way, and that maximum width was still obtained.

At first I was quite worried about the strength of the steel sheet on the side, but it was quite solid (1.6MM on the outside walls, and 1MM on the inside)   I used 44*69MM wood although on hindsight, the width was perfect, but I think 90-100mm would have been better for the depth.   On top was 18MM board with tongue and groove edges.  With me standing on it in the middle it sags just under an inch which is acceptable although not ideal, thicker lintels would have eliminated this.

This provides a great storage area, and now has everything I rarely need from old toolboxes to trolleys stacked on it, as well as some of the larger parts of the fury build – wheels etc.  It was a bit of an effort getting things up there, but its made a lot more space.  I’ll also put the compressors and possibly the engine crane if I can lift the bits up there too.

The only issue was that it made the work area dark so 2 18W strip lamps were installed underneath, and these light up the area pretty well, in addition is the infrared heater, and a conventional fan+hot bars heater which is primarily there to heat the floor when I get around to painting it.

Bits and Bobs

Neither car ready yet, fury is at least progressing, seven still not imported which is a bit pants. Ordered wheels from George Polley Motorsport, went for 6×13 CXR’s in black on the front, and 7×13 on the rear.

I decided on keeping et18 offset on the front, and based on the notes from Rob Collingridge, did my best to get the right offset on the rear. Rob used 13×6’s on the rear, but had to use a 10mm spacer, by my working, that would be et8. Now, if I use 7″ wide wheels, to keep the same inner clearance, I need to increase the amount the wheel sticks out by half an inch (12mm) so that would be an offset of ET-4. ET0 therefore seems like the sensible option.

I went for Yokohama A048R tyres all round with 185×60 on the front, and 205×60 on the rear.

I also ordered a large selection of nuts and bolts from namrick. I will also try to get a price for the nitrons today too.


In a weeks time I’m off to the US and Mexico for three weeks, before I go I want to make sure that a few things are sorted out.

The garage is ready for me to move into, I need to sort out the paperwork with the agent, and then pay the owner the rent. This should be fairly straight forward, but my overly-realistic self thinks it will be a ballache. I also want to see if I can get the floor painted before I go to the US, that will give me plenty of drying time.

It would be good to get the shelves in, but that’s not going to happen, and the bench I will bring from the UK as I should have space in the van this time around.

I will try to get lights mounted somewhere though, as at the moment there are not enough, and it will be harder with the car in the way. I may also move in the toolboxes and compressor, but I’m in two minds if i should just fork out for a larger capacity compressor or not.

I will leave the car lift until the new year, as although its nice, its not going to be required until its nearer a rolling chassis.

I need to confirm with Chris at BGH the order state, fuel tank, and check nothing is missing from the order. I also need to confirm the price for the fuel tank and powder coating.

I may order some wheels and or Nitrons and get that over with too. It looks like most of the parts have turned up in the UK though which is good so I’m more or less good to go now. I need to order some sundries from Screwfix, mainly gloves, drills, rivets and some hand cleaner.

Apart from that I think I’m all set for a rolling chassis. Next main big components to get will be:

  • Shocks
  • Wheels
  • Reverse Box
  • Engine
  • Prop shafts
  • Cooling system
  • Exhaust

I can possibly start doing some things in the interior like the seats and seat belts, but think its better to wait until the body work has arrived before I do too much in the car.

Mega Order

Phoned rally design, they don’t stock the Raceleda hubs any more, but do still stock their own group 4 ones which fit a standard stub with standard bearings. I decided to go for these, they are cheaper than the Raceleda ones, but noticeably heavier looking.

Speed-on stock an M10-1/8NPTF adapter for a few Euros so I’ll give that a try assuming I can actually buy one from them, if not I’ll lop the end off and fit one to the hose at a later date.

I ordered the rest of the braking system

  • Escort RS Donor – Powerlite – 265mm Solid Kit (BK1R) Style of disc Grooved
  • Sierra (Drum) Powerlite HB Caliper – 240mm Solid Kit (BK65)
  • Powerlite Handbrake Caliper – CABLE (RD6902)
  • Powerlite 4-Pot Fast Road Ceramic (Poly-Q) (15Q-8812K)

Some bits I need for the steering

  • Escort MK2 2.9 Ratio Steering Rack RHD (RD870)
  • ALLOY RACK CLAMPS Escort MK1 & MK2 (RD848)
  • 2 Group 4 Ally Hub – STD/STD (RD199)
  • 16 Standard plus 25mm 63mm long 12mm 1.5 Ford (SS37)
  • 16 Wheels Nuts – 12mm 1.5 19mm (3/4″) HEX 60º (SN41)

And the rest of the fuel system

  • 8mm – 5/16 ID HOSE (LMA367)
  • Copper Nickel Brake Pipe 1/4 – 25 Foot Coil (CNF014)

After getting expensive quotes from I relented and bought a diff from ebay. I also need to get some track rod ends, probably from ebay too.

Just waiting on Chris confirming the costs for the tank, powder coating and uprights, and of course a delivery date.

The next logical thing to get will be the Shock absorbers, Nitrons are going to be expensive though sadly, I will then find myself some build wheels and I’ll have a car that can roll, stop, turn and spray fuel into the engine bay.

After that its the reverse box and drive train.

Things to do before the car arrives

A big todo list of stuff….

  • Sort out new garage, I’ve rented one starting 1st December, have plenty of space in my own one for the bits if needed, but would like to have everything ready for the car arriving. Before I can use the garage I need:
    • to get the floor painted, I plan on using good quality epoxy, my current garage is so dusty I hate working in it as I come home covered in concrete dust and it gets everywhere.
    • Some shelves and a workbench. My garage is tall and relatively wide so I plan on putting a mezzanine in, and some tall industrial shelving. At the rear will be a workbench, toolboxes and pillar drill.
    • Sort out lighting, air hoses, and power feeds so that i can actually get some work done.
    • Install the car lift if I have one by then.
  • Order the bits I need for the first part of the build, this will leave me with the rear of the car almost at rolling chassis stage. To do this I need:
    • Fuel tank and fuel system
    • Braking system
    • Differential
  • Confirm the colour choice with Chris at BGH
  • Check what ends the flexi hoses are coming with, and make sure the brake lines are Copper/Nickel.
  • Find a fuel tank supplier who can make an alloy fuel tank with a swirl pot and the right connectors.