Fury Todo List

Its mainly little jobs now, in no particular order these are:

  • Interior
    • Fit the dashhboard
      • Mount the dash
      • Mount the T-Pull handle for the fire extinguisher
      • buy and fit a working flasher relay
      • Fit (Temporary) buttons for dip/mains and horn
      • Make and fit temporary shift lever
      • Fit the heater hose from the dash to the heater
      • Fit the heater hose from the heater to the driver footwell (Exhaust should keep the passenger warm.)
      • Fit a working switch for the heater fan
      • Fit the intercom
      • Order and fit switch for wipers
    • Stick down carpeting
    • Carpet around the windscreen aperture
  • Engine:
    • Make an airbox to get through SVA
    • Adapt existing air filter to sit 180 degrees from its current location and make hole in bonnet
    • Remove AIS system and turn it into a breather system
    • Order and fit a catch tank
    • Change the O-Ring on the sump for a yamaha part
    • Order and fit alloy tubes as current ones seem to be porous
  • Bodywork:
    • Glue rear lights in place
    • Use some PU to fill any gaps
    • Fit front air dam
    • Buy and fit some mirrors
    • Wash clean and polish
    • Buy and fit rear diffuser
    • Fit side repeaters
  • Windscreen:
    • Buy and fit windscreen
    • Fit windscreen wipers
    • Fit washer nozzle
  • Brakes:
    • Set the brake bias
    • weld up the bias bar for IVA
    • Remove the bias bar adapter
  • Wheels
    • Balance the wheels as a couple of the sticky weights came off
    • Fit all the wheel nuts, and cut down the front studs if required
  • Suspension
    • Book and appointment to get suspension set up and corner weighted

Little Jobs

Its been a whilst since I posted, lots of non-car related things going have kept me from posting progress. The car is nearing completion now, my current todo list is:

Seven:

  • Paint metalwork at front of car
  • Fix the oil leaks
  • Fit the additional return spring on the throttle
  • Check the exhaust fittings for leaks
  • Check the state of the exhaust wadding
  • Make a new boot
  • Make a floor for the boot of the car
  • Check if the fuel tank is actually leaking or if its just overspill from where i was careless.
  • Set the Timing
  • Adjust the tappets
  • Remove the foam from the underneath of the bonnet
  • Remove the old fuel filler, fill the hole and paint it
  • Rewire the tachometer to work with megasquirt
  • Paint the aerocatches black

Fury:

  • Fit the trim to the windscreen
  • Fit the flat shifter kit
  • Fit the battery holder
  • Make a bracket and fit the speed sensor
  • Fit the indicator side repeaters
  • Fit and wire in the IR beacon for the data-logger
  • Fit the warning LED for the immobilizer
  • Sort out the heater ducting
  • Adjust the headlamps and fit the cowling
  • Connect up the earth for headlamps

MX5:

  • Change the oil
  • Change the cambelt
  • Flush the cooling system

Wiring

So, to finish the car, I ‘just’ have to:Fit the windscreen wipers, and windscreen

  • Fit the gauges, switches, vents and dashboard (all part of the same job.)
  • Fit the rear lights
  • Make an under tray and flat floor.
  • Powder coat the rollover bar (Painting this has been a series of disasters.)
  • Wire the whole thing
  • Fill with oil and water
  • Start.
  • Drive.
  • Smile.

The windscreen and wipers will be the last thing I do, as it will restrict access to everything else once it is in there. Rear lights are on order, and I’m still deciding over the gauges and layout of the dash, so the logical thing to do now is the wiring. I’m going to make my own loom, although there are a few off-the-shelf options that are very appealing.

Premier Wiring make a great Lucas based loom, Alan the chap who runs Premier Wiring will do more or less any length/combination of clips etc, but there are a few fundamental things that are suboptimal about the loom. Mainly the proportions aren’t quite right for such a small. I always find I’m cutting out things and faffing around to make it tidy. For the money though, the quality is outstanding and its very well made.

Stafford Vehicle Components also do a ‘Rapidfit’ Loom and some others, these are more expensive versions of the Premier wiring loom, and whilst these look well made, ultimately are not going to be quite what I want, especially as I’m aiming to save weight, and have some specific requirements for lighting and accessories such as camera/intercom etc which all must be powered and require non-12v feeds.

The front of the loom will be supported by a tray underneath the dashboard, this will keep everything tidy. Instead of fuses I will be using circuit breakers, I hate fuses, they have a really annoying habit of blowing when I’ve run out, and I find them generally fiddly. Circuit breakers work pretty much instantly, which is also a good thing, but can also be reset easily and give a clear indication that they have tripped which makes fault finding simpler. Where possible I shall use Lucas color codes.

The main power control is via an FIA master switch close to the battery, this feeds the ignition key which is the main on/off switch for the car. I will fit this after IVA.

The IVA requires that the side (Parking) lights can be on with the ignition off. In order to remove any ambiguity over what qualifies for the Ignition, I shall remove the FIA master switch for IVA. Some cars disable the headlights when the ignition is off leaving just the sidelights on even if the dipped headlights are still switched on. This is handy as it means you are less likely to run the battery flat if you leave your lights on, but the simplest way is simply to wire all lights via permanent live.

I am using toggle switches for primary light control, these are rated to at last 24 Amps at 12V, this means I can power the lights directly from the switch. However I’m using a momentary on push button and a bistable latching relay to control dip/main beams. This enables me to have a button on or near the steering wheel so that I can dip the lights quickly when driving at pace without moving my hands from the steering wheel.

The push button will also flash the main beams if the lights are not switched on. There is no requirement in the IVA for this, however it is my personal preference.

I’m doubtful if the generator on the bike engine will be able to cope with driving lamps, however I will wire these in regardless. (I want to avoid splicing circuits at a later stage.) This will be done through an off/on/on toggle switch. When set to off, the driving lights will remain off regardless. When set to position 1, the lights will illuminate with main beams. When set to position 2, the lights will light when the dipped and main beams are on. The load from these lights in combination with the headlights may be too much for a toggle switch, so I shall wire these through a separate relay.

The IVA states that the fog light must come on when selected and when the dipped or main beams are on, it is wired through the main lighting circuit, there is no need for a relay for this.

Brake and reverse lights are wired via the ignition switch.

I’m using a lower power, constant rate flasher unit, this has a feed from the permanent live, and goes to the indicator control box, which I’ve designed to use single push buttons on the wheel. the control box also controls the hazard waring lamps, which must work with the ignition off.

There are separate circuits for comms/cameras, auxiliary devices (both perm and ign live) dashboard electronics including heater/fan, windscreen wipers, and the engine.

The engine loom is completely separate with 7 wires going back to the main loom for fuel pump (switched live.) fan, (Switched earth), Permanent Live, Ignition Live, Run, and Start (Switched Earth)

Todo

Engine

  • Fit and reinforce engine mounts to ensure they wont fail in the same way again.
  • Fix or replace sump, either shorten the existing one or just stick a non-battered one on, whichever is easiest. Potentially make a sump guard.
  • Change crank shaft end seal for one that doesn’t let oil pour out – some people find a bit of oil acceptable but I find it embarrassing so it needs to be sorted out.
  • Since the engine will be out I want to change the cam, I’m relatively happy with the piper 285 cam, it has lots of torque from low RPM, and reasonable high end power so changing it is a bit of a gamble. I’ve decided on the kent 244 cam, its a high lift cam, and should give improved top end power, with a loss of low end torque. To compensate I’m going to be running fuel injection, which should enable better fueling at low RPM and pull the torque up a little.
  • Remove cylinder head, de-coke, and examine engine for wear- I’m interested to see the state of the valve seats after 7000 miles using additive, its also a good time to change the head gasket, its got pretty hot a couple of times, and I’d like to ensure there are no failures in the gasket.
Fueling
  • Fit the Mega squirt (Microsquirt) for full fuel injection.
  • Buy and Fit a larger fuel tank – 20 liters just isn’t going to cut it, I feel I’m constantly refueling.
  • Fit larger fuel lines with a return to the tank, for fuel injection I will need a fuel return, standard sizes seem to be based around 10mm for fuel feed, rather than 8.
  • Fit the in line fuel filter and buy and fit injection pump
  • Fit the throttle bodies from the GSXR 750
  • Permanently install the wide-band LC-1
Bodywork
  • Remove the scratches from the bonnet, remove the nuts and bond it into one single piece rather than the Sort out the bodywork, fill up the hole where the aerocatch doesn’t fit due to the intake system and make it orange again.
  • Make a new boot box, i’ll need this because the fuel tank will be a different shape, and wont fit within the current one, it is also starting to rot a little and needs to be made out of something non-wooden.
  • Fit a new drivers side mirror as the current one is beyond service.
  • Paint the interior where the paint has worn and touch up the rest of the car as appropriate.
  • Make and fit ally floor covers
Electrical
  • Accessory wiring needs to be rewired, with heavier wire, and a smaller, dedicated fuse.
  • Decide on a data logging solution that is compatible with the mega squirt
Other
  • APK is due in December.
Fury
  • Fit alcantara cloth I got for the interior
  • Finish dashboard buck and make dash
  • Wire engine completely
  • Fit passenger seat and seat belt
  • Paint and refit roll over bar
  • Make car bottom from ali and fit
  • Fit the prop shafts with grade 12 bolts
  • Fit steering wheel and boss
  • Figure out the dash layout, and the logic design for the indicators on the steering wheel.
  • Figure out the appropriate adaptors needed for the oil pressure/temp senders
  • Decide on the dat logger I want to use
  • Get the rear lights and wire the rest of the car
Garage
  • Fit car ramp, wire in new motor or inverter as required
  • Enlarge mezzanine as appropriate.
  • Do a full clear out post-sanding.

Todo

In a weeks time I’m off to the US and Mexico for three weeks, before I go I want to make sure that a few things are sorted out.

The garage is ready for me to move into, I need to sort out the paperwork with the agent, and then pay the owner the rent. This should be fairly straight forward, but my overly-realistic self thinks it will be a ballache. I also want to see if I can get the floor painted before I go to the US, that will give me plenty of drying time.

It would be good to get the shelves in, but that’s not going to happen, and the bench I will bring from the UK as I should have space in the van this time around.

I will try to get lights mounted somewhere though, as at the moment there are not enough, and it will be harder with the car in the way. I may also move in the toolboxes and compressor, but I’m in two minds if i should just fork out for a larger capacity compressor or not.

I will leave the car lift until the new year, as although its nice, its not going to be required until its nearer a rolling chassis.

I need to confirm with Chris at BGH the order state, fuel tank, and check nothing is missing from the order. I also need to confirm the price for the fuel tank and powder coating.

I may order some wheels and or Nitrons and get that over with too. It looks like most of the parts have turned up in the UK though which is good so I’m more or less good to go now. I need to order some sundries from Screwfix, mainly gloves, drills, rivets and some hand cleaner.

Apart from that I think I’m all set for a rolling chassis. Next main big components to get will be:

  • Shocks
  • Wheels
  • Reverse Box
  • Engine
  • Prop shafts
  • Cooling system
  • Exhaust

I can possibly start doing some things in the interior like the seats and seat belts, but think its better to wait until the body work has arrived before I do too much in the car.

Mega Order

Phoned rally design, they don’t stock the Raceleda hubs any more, but do still stock their own group 4 ones which fit a standard stub with standard bearings. I decided to go for these, they are cheaper than the Raceleda ones, but noticeably heavier looking.

Speed-on stock an M10-1/8NPTF adapter for a few Euros so I’ll give that a try assuming I can actually buy one from them, if not I’ll lop the end off and fit one to the hose at a later date.

I ordered the rest of the braking system

  • Escort RS Donor – Powerlite – 265mm Solid Kit (BK1R) Style of disc Grooved
  • Sierra (Drum) Powerlite HB Caliper – 240mm Solid Kit (BK65)
  • Powerlite Handbrake Caliper – CABLE (RD6902)
  • Powerlite 4-Pot Fast Road Ceramic (Poly-Q) (15Q-8812K)

Some bits I need for the steering

  • Escort MK2 2.9 Ratio Steering Rack RHD (RD870)
  • ALLOY RACK CLAMPS Escort MK1 & MK2 (RD848)
  • 2 WHEEL BEARING KITs, PER HUB (RD744)
  • 2 Group 4 Ally Hub – STD/STD (RD199)
  • 2 STANDARD GREASE CAPS – ALLOY – ESCORT (RD757escort)
  • 16 Standard plus 25mm 63mm long 12mm 1.5 Ford (SS37)
  • 16 Wheels Nuts – 12mm 1.5 19mm (3/4″) HEX 60º (SN41)

And the rest of the fuel system

  • 8mm – 5/16 ID HOSE (LMA367)
  • Copper Nickel Brake Pipe 1/4 – 25 Foot Coil (CNF014)

After getting expensive quotes from breakeryard.com I relented and bought a diff from ebay. I also need to get some track rod ends, probably from ebay too.

Just waiting on Chris confirming the costs for the tank, powder coating and uprights, and of course a delivery date.

The next logical thing to get will be the Shock absorbers, Nitrons are going to be expensive though sadly, I will then find myself some build wheels and I’ll have a car that can roll, stop, turn and spray fuel into the engine bay.

After that its the reverse box and drive train.

Things to do before the car arrives

A big todo list of stuff….

  • Sort out new garage, I’ve rented one starting 1st December, have plenty of space in my own one for the bits if needed, but would like to have everything ready for the car arriving. Before I can use the garage I need:
    • to get the floor painted, I plan on using good quality epoxy, my current garage is so dusty I hate working in it as I come home covered in concrete dust and it gets everywhere.
    • Some shelves and a workbench. My garage is tall and relatively wide so I plan on putting a mezzanine in, and some tall industrial shelving. At the rear will be a workbench, toolboxes and pillar drill.
    • Sort out lighting, air hoses, and power feeds so that i can actually get some work done.
    • Install the car lift if I have one by then.
  • Order the bits I need for the first part of the build, this will leave me with the rear of the car almost at rolling chassis stage. To do this I need:
    • Fuel tank and fuel system
    • Braking system
    • Differential
  • Confirm the colour choice with Chris at BGH
  • Check what ends the flexi hoses are coming with, and make sure the brake lines are Copper/Nickel.
  • Find a fuel tank supplier who can make an alloy fuel tank with a swirl pot and the right connectors.